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Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse sit at opposite ends of the Royal Mile, connected by a single straight kilometre of one of the most historically concentrated streets in Britain. The Castle is at the top of the volcanic rock, the Palace at the foot. They’re both royal sites, both worth visiting, and genuinely different in character. Here’s how to choose between them, or how to do both if you have the time.
The direct answer: if you have time for one, choose Edinburgh Castle. It contains more to see, it tells a longer and more complex story, and the views from the esplanade and the ramparts are exceptional. If you have time for both, do the Castle in the morning and Holyroodhouse in the afternoon, walking the Royal Mile between them at whatever pace the street demands.
Edinburgh Castle: What's Inside and What to Prioritise
Edinburgh Castle is built on a volcanic plug of basalt that has been fortified since at least the Iron Age. The current structures span multiple centuries, from the 12th-century St Margaret’s Chapel, the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh, to the 20th-century Scottish National War Memorial.
Within that span you have the Scottish Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny, a military prison, a Great Hall and one of the finest views over the city from anywhere accessible to the public.
The Crown RoomThe Scottish Crown Jewels and the Stone of Destiny
The Honours of Scotland, the oldest surviving crown jewels in Britain, are in the Crown Room in the Royal Palace. The crown, sceptre and sword of state are displayed together and date from the early 16th century.
The Stone of Destiny, on which Scottish monarchs were crowned and which was taken to Westminster by Edward I in 1296 and returned to Scotland in 1996, sits beside them. Both draw consistent queues. Go to the Crown Room first, when the castle opens, to minimise the wait.
Names Behind the NumbersThe Scottish National War Memorial
The War Memorial, completed in 1927 in a former barracks building on the highest point of the castle, is one of the most moving war memorials in Britain. Unlike most national war memorials, which deal in abstraction, the Scottish National War Memorial is specific: it records the names of the Scottish dead from every regiment.
There are separate bays for different branches of service, including women who served as nurses and civilians killed in the conflict. The craftsmanship throughout is extraordinary.
Royal Ceremony and Military HistoryThe Great Hall and Mons Meg
The Great Hall was built around 1511 for James IV and is the finest surviving example of a medieval great hall in Scotland. The hammerbeam roof, one of only two of its type in Scotland, is the principal architectural element. The hall was used as a military hospital and later as a barracks before being restored in the 1880s.
The detail most castle visitors miss: Mons Meg, the enormous 15th-century bombard displayed on the upper esplanade, was fired in 1558 to celebrate the marriage of Mary Queen of Scots to the French Dauphin. It was subsequently used as a symbol of Scottish royal power rather than an actual gun. It was removed to the Tower of London in 1754 and returned to Edinburgh in 1829 after a campaign by Walter Scott.
The Palace of Holyroodhouse What's Inside and What to Prioritise
The Palace of Holyroodhouse is the official residence of the monarch in Scotland. It’s a working royal palace: the King or another member of the Royal Family visits for Holyrood Week each June and July, during which the palace is closed to visitors. Outside those periods it’s open for self-guided tours.
Mary Queen of ScotsThe Historic Apartments
The historic apartments cover the 16th-century tower that was the private quarters of Mary Queen of Scots and the state rooms built by Charles II in the 1670s.
Mary’s apartments are the most historically significant: it was here that her private secretary David Rizzio was murdered in March 1566, stabbed multiple times by a group of nobles that included her husband Lord Darnley. A plaque on the floor of the outer chamber marks the spot.
Two Thousand Years in PortraitsThe Great Gallery
The Great Gallery contains 89 portraits of Scottish monarchs painted by Jacob de Wet between 1684 and 1686 for Charles II. They depict 111 monarchs from the legendary Fergus I to Charles II himself, covering approximately 2,000 years of Scottish royal history.
De Wet painted at a rate of one portrait per week, which gives the series a uniform appearance that sacrifices historical accuracy for aesthetic consistency. Many of the earlier monarchs are invented or composite figures rather than likenesses of real individuals. The effect en masse is nonetheless extraordinary.
Medieval HolyroodThe Abbey Ruins
The ruined nave of the Abbey of Holyrood, founded in 1128 by David I, stands adjacent to the palace. The roof collapsed in 1768 and the abbey has been a ruin since. It’s included in palace admission and gives the complex a visual drama that the palace building itself, relatively plain in its exterior, does not provide. The grave markers within the roofless nave include several Scottish nobles.
Explore the wider city with LetzGo’s Edinburgh tours, covering the Castle, Holyroodhouse, the Royal Mile and the city’s hidden history.
*Tour grid: add relevant Edinburgh tour cards here.
The Route Between the PalacesThe Royal Mile Between Them
The Royal Mile is the collective name for the series of streets connecting the Castle Esplanade to the Palace of Holyroodhouse: Castlehill, the Lawnmarket, the High Street and the Canongate. Walking it end to end takes about 20 minutes at a pace that ignores everything. Taking it seriously, with stops at the closes, museums and churches along the way, takes the better part of a day.
The closes, the narrow lanes running perpendicular off the Royal Mile, are where the real character of medieval Edinburgh is preserved. Mary King’s Close, now an underground visitor attraction below the City Chambers, shows what the original street level of the 17th-century city looked like. The People’s Story museum on the Canongate tells the social history of ordinary Edinburgh residents rather than kings and nobles.
Continue exploring with Edinburgh Uncovered, our guide to Scotland’s capital.
Visitor QuestionsFrequently Asked Questions
Is Edinburgh Castle worth the entry price?
Yes, for most visitors. The admission includes the Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny, the War Memorial, St Margaret’s Chapel, the Great Hall and the views. A full visit takes two to three hours. Check the official website for current prices and book in advance, particularly in summer.
When is the Palace of Holyroodhouse closed?
The Palace of Holyroodhouse is closed during Holyrood Week, which falls in late June and early July each year. It’s also closed on certain dates when royal events are scheduled. Check the Royal Collection Trust website before planning a visit, as closure dates vary by year.
How long does Edinburgh Castle take to visit?
Allow at least two hours for a comprehensive visit. The Crown Room, War Memorial and Great Hall each reward proper time. Add time for the views from the ramparts and esplanade. Three hours is comfortable.
Can you do Edinburgh Castle and Holyroodhouse in the same day?
Yes. Visit Edinburgh Castle in the morning, walk down the Royal Mile, and see Holyroodhouse in the early afternoon. Both combined take most of a full day. Structure any guided walk separately from the independent visits to avoid doubling up on content.
The Royal Mile With ContextExplore Edinburgh's Royal Mile and Hidden History With a Local Expert
LetzGo’s Edinburgh tours bring the full history of the city to life, from the Castle to Holyroodhouse and the closes between them. Also available: the Edinburgh Harry Potter Tour and the Edinburgh Outlander Highlights Tour.
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